Got a parking ticket and a speeding ticket. But not in Los Angeles. Got a better reception (so far) from Los Angeles than we did from Belgrade. But there again, Belgrade is not a happy place at the moment.
Got held up at Heathrow for 9 hours because JAT was on strike. The station manager apologised to me saying that a lot of people hadn’t been paid recently. That’s why there was a strike. So, even before getting out of West London, I was beginning to get first-hand experience of the state Serbia/Montenegro is in. Mr Zoran K, the station manager, then added, out of the blue, as I left him that all this mess couldn’t just be put down to Milosevic….
The name was going to crop up again.
But the eight hours was nicely spent because I got to have a long conversation with Zita Z, a Theatre Studies student from Kingston Uni; to get her take, not only on Serb/Mont but also on the UK. She was going back for the holidays to see her mum and dad. Her English was brilliant, really colloquial, Estuarine and slangy, and she supported, and occasionally worked as a hopitality waitress, for Tottenham… I decided there and then if we succeeded in putting the show on as we wanted - we would ask her to translate it into Serbo-Croat.
She also tipped me off to meet Derjan Mikhailovic, the newly elected Minister of Culture for Belgrade, who, by chance, we were introducted to the next morning at the Museum of Modern Art reception. So meeting Zita got us a meeting with Derjan.
That Saturday, then, instead of arriving at tea-time, we arrived after midnight. But we still went to see our hopeful ‘host’ in Belgrade. Sadly she turned out to be all wind and piss, the Legendary Branka P, whose theatre, the Centre for Cultural Decontamination, turned out to be the Centre for Cultural Non-Co-operation, keeping us waiting another hour only to say that she was too tired to have ‘the meeting’.
In fact, we never had ‘the meeting’. She ‘pulled out’ - was she ever in? - 48 hours later when we were in Subotica.
But lovely to find the Majestik Hotel. Lovely to find Chrissie there. Lovely to be able to park the hire-car somewhere near (and not get a ticket the very first morning).
Lovely to discover we’d been invited after breakfast to the museum. A lovely spring day, leaves just beginning to sprout on the trees, driving out of Belgrade to a park the banks of the Sava river, the forty year old building, inspired by Moma in New York, it’s external roof and gabling etching the letters MM against the emerging greenery.
Lovely to go, that lunchtime, with old friends Joka and Ljubica to the Konoba fish restaurant beside the railway bridge and catch up on their news. Fried catfish and another one called Smuj, I think. The quaint little gingerbread houses in the same locality made of driftwood and salvage, perched among bulldozed levees.
Sitting on the riverbank talking to Joka about his yacht club sailing on the Danube; about the summer regattas; about the Iron Gate further up river near the Romanian border, a gorge with a big lakey marshland in front of it. About the owner of the fish restaurant, feted for rescuing suicides from the bridge, as he sits calmly in his boat catching the day’s menu.
Talking also about a strike the next morning. Ljubica was lending some of the Centre Stari Grad’s chairs to a neighbour. People were coming the next day to pay their condolences. They needed chairs. Their son had been stabbed to death last week. Coming back from school, he’d passed a group of kids sitting on a wall and they’d said something. He said something back, so they’d beaten and kicked him and he died.
The whole country is shocked, the newspapers are full of it, and the Ministry of Eduction so worried it’s called for the schools to close and for a day of rememberance and demonstration from students and teachers. Things are getting out of hand. Things are changing; and - again - not for the better. Ljubica tells me people are shocked. Ljubica, the steadfast one who did so much to provide a haven during the Nato bombing. Where young people could come when all the schools were closed. A refuge of drama and art and orange juice. She thinks that these are the kids of Yugoslavia’s destruction. Kids who were born when Yugoslavian dismemberement began. This murder is their legacy.
That night, Chrissie and Ljubica and Luka and I went to Gordana’s show at the National Theatre: Theatre or Life? Based on the art of Charlotte Salomon, and the life that led her eventually to the Gas Chamber - there were some stunning images - and some stunningly beautiful performers - it was clear and disciplined and well orchestrated but the narrative needed shaping. Ok, we were struggling without the Serbo-Croat, but it appeared to end about five times.
I was painfully conscious of how disciplined and drilled the work was, though. I knew that our actors would not have the chance to rehearse in such detail (or the tradition of it, for that matter either), but I knew we could make up for it in the relevence of our play, and the passion and commitment with which it could be performed. We had something to say - about war, about legacy and about young people.
We had one drink with Gordana in the bar after and went home to prepare for our drive and our ‘meetings’ the next day in Novi Sad and Subotica.
But first, on Monday, the meeting with the Minister. He was late but he gave us a fair hearing - and his backing: ‘Tell Borka P the Minister supports this project’. Pity she didn’t. He also told us that a few years ago Warcrime would have been thought of as ‘politically incorrect’, because any criticism of the Nato bombing was seen as an attempt to support Milosevic….
Now, six years after it happened - three days shy of the sixth anniversary, in fact - we were at last free to speak ‘the truth’ in the country to which it had been done.
Progress.
We drove up to Novi Sad. A meeting with the new director of the Young People’s theatre. Not an inspiring man. Quite kindly looking. Suited. Grey. His young translator Mickey obviously champing at the bit but Mr K could really only offer us technical support…
On to Subotica, Luka at the wheel. We go on a little detour and park up. He shows me the Lake where he played when KPGT were setting the town alight. And across from the lake the wooded area where they did another show. Better times; for all. Luka who now kips on the floor of the Secerana. The excellent actor with no fixed abode.
We drive into town. He seems to know or be known by everyone. Well, of course. He lived here for nine years. He met a girl. They got married. He has a daughter, doing well at school. Hoping to be a doctor or an architect. He still sees her, of course.
We meet his friend, Robika, guitar playing man, Martial Artist with the roguish smile, who’s the director or the school hostel. It’s here that the wedding collective actors will stay, each with their own student room built round an old quiet courtyard.
We go to the Arts Centre. There’s an exhibition launch. We meet the ex minister of Culture of Subotica. We meet the woman who’s just failed to get elected to be minister. We speak to the current Minister on the phone, finally, but we don’t meet her. Protocols have to be observed. Too busy. Apparently from the Hungarian nationalist party. Miss Ildica L. But she does take down our website details… and email us the next morning.
We go drinking with the journalist who did the TV interview with me earlier in the day. Her boyfriend turns up. He’s the chef at his dad’s restaurant we’d tried to park outside earlier. He loves Jamie Oliver. He wants to do programmes about local food. About these farms we’ve been seeing on the way up. Little oases of trees, buildings and animals nestling in a sweep of bare still-winter farmland. Women, children, geese, shade, barns, wells, pumps, machinery, wood-piles, pigs and chicken. But by now we’ve had the news of Borka Contamination and I don’t feel like staying the night. We drive back to Belgrade. Get a ticket on the open road with not a car headlight for three miles either way on the rod-straight roads, not even the cops who ‘caught’ us.
And, thank God, no need to travel the 500 km round trip the next day to Nis, Zoran Zivkovic is going to be in Belgrade. We meet. We have a good meeting, his translator the stunningly beautiful Mira? from Canada. Mr Z, very impressive with his jet black hair and his open neck shirt and dark suit. His ‘proposal’, setting it down on the table like a flush of cards. But it’s good this. Better than pussy-footing around. It allow us to state our ‘position’, which we do.
We talk about the venue. Zivkovic says they have many interesting wrecked buildings in Nis that might be suitable for our show. I ask about the Tobacco Factory that Gordana mentions in the show. No, he say, it’s been rebuilt. Then he adds, and now owned by an American company. Smart, I say, first they bomb it. Then they buy it. He laughs.
The upshot: that we will do the tour two weeks later than initially thought - time for him to get the money.
And at the end Mira say: Mr Zivkovic has just said a famous phrase that Slobodan Milosevic always used to say: OK, that’s it. Now, let’s get back to our desks! Everyone I subsequently told this to knew the phrase - and laughed. It was now politically correct to quote the old enemy. And did I detect some fondness? Zivkovic only became Prime Minister last year because the Prime minister was assassinated.
A good way to end the day. And them Sarajevo Stories at the KPGT Secerana, Philip Gajic’s piece. Excellent. Very clear though for some reason I thought that Ljubisa had directed it, thanked him and didn’t thank Philip….
And finally, getting a cab up to Misko’s. Lily was in Italy. But they are doing better. Misko is still driving the taxi and maybe will always be driving the taxi now, but he has become an internet wizard. He downloads music. He’s not standing still. He’s still gentle and kind. Looking after their son. Providing Luka and me with a stunning Moussaka and salad and wine and everything you could ask for at eleven at night. And two hours conversation. It’s only because he’s now got all his computers and DVD in their lovely flat that we couldn’t find something to attach the old Video player to so he could see the tape I made five years back.
And so I left, for one day in London before I fly 11 hours to LA.